What surprises me most about Ghent is how little-known it is among tourists. It has everything one might want, including a relaxed pace of life, meandering canal-side walks, and a historic heart full of structures transformed into restaurants, bars, and boutiques. It is easily accessible by train from the UK. Above all, Ghent is very much a city for its people; the food and drink scene is solely focused on local tastes, and the city’s cultural life is kept lively by a sizeable student population.

But before you dive in, fuel up on waffles and coffee at Mokabon, an old-school coffee shop. A narrow road leads off the huge Korenmarkt, which was once the center of Ghent’s wheat trade. Not far away, looming over the graceful residences of the city, is the medieval Belfry of Ghent. Situated at a height of 300 feet, this spot is perfect for getting one’s bearings and seeing the broad panorama of the city’s red-tiled rooftops. 

From here, you can view the network of waterways and canals that played a major role in Ghent’s rise to prominence in medieval Europe. After eight centuries, the views are still dominated by gabled buildings, cobblestone quays, and church spires. The best place to start exploring the canal is Graslei, where families and students gather along the pier with their legs dangling over the water on sunny days. Go to the southernmost point of Graslei and cross the stone St. Michael’s Bridge to truly appreciate everything.

If you walk north, you will come at the Great Butcher’s Hall. This is a quaint place to buy Flemish products like beer cheese, cuberdon candies in the shape of cones, and jenever, a juniper-based beverage. Not to be overlooked is Tierenteyn-Verlent, a provider of mustard since 1790. If it catches your attention, Frites Atelier is right across the square. Part of a company owned by Dutch chef Sergio Herman, the restaurant serves up specialties like kimchi and cream cheese in addition to chips topped with a beef and beer stew.

The Huis van Alijn, a museum that examines daily life in the past and is housed in a former almshouse, is just a short stroll across the Leie river. For those old enough to remember them, the Nintendo Donkey Kongs and Wilbur and Friends dolls will inevitably elicit nostalgic sighs among the displays of vintage toys, packaging, and household goods. The Design Museum Gent features permanent collections of furniture and fabrics from around the world housed in the rooms of a former townhouse from the 18th century with a dramatic modern addition, paying homage to the city’s long history in the textile trade.

Take your time exploring the charming, winding alleyways of Ghent. Werregarenstraat, an alleyway so well-liked by street artists that it’s now more often known as Graffiti Street, and the Antiek-Depot, a large, disorganized area that houses several antique dealers and has a charming pub in the middle, are both worthwhile side trips. However, make sure to leave room for a drink at Gentse Gruut Brouwerij, a brewery that brews its beer with spices and herbs rather than hops. In its bizarre object d’art filled brewery hall, you may sample house beers (look out the zebra-striped stuffed cows on display). There are tours available if you’re eager to learn more.

You enter the industrial era and leave Ghent’s medieval core behind when you travel north. The massive old cotton mill that houses the Industriemuseum is filled with interactive exhibits that trace the history of the city’s industrialization through the industries of textiles, printing, and graphic design. The ideal place to finish your journey is Dok Noord, as most of Ghent’s contemporary development is concentrated in this historic port region. Hal 16, a food hall owned by Dok Brewing Company, serves as an illustration of the direction the city is going. Get pizza, smoked meats, veggie burgers, and beers to go, and eat inside the large former warehouse or outside on the patio.