What’s most surprising about Ghent is that it’s not already very popular with tourists. It’s easy to get to by train from the UK, and it has a medieval center full of buildings that have been turned into restaurants, bars, and shops. There are also winding walks along the canal, and the pace of life is very slow. Ghent is a city that cares a lot about its residents. Its food and drink scene is geared toward local tastes, and its culture scene is kept lively by its large student population.

But before you start, stop by the old-school coffee shop Mokabon for some waffles and coffee. It’s on a small street off of the huge Korenmarkt, which used to be the hub of Ghent’s wheat trade. The medieval Belfry of Ghent is just around the corner and stands tall above the city’s beautiful buildings. At 300 feet, it’s a good spot to get your bearings while taking in the view of the city’s red-tiled roofs. 

From this height, you can see the rivers and canals that helped Ghent become one of the most important towns in Europe in the Middle Ages. In 800 years, the views haven’t changed much. The view is still mostly made up of gabled houses, cobbled quays, and church towers. Graslei is a great place to start exploring the canals. On sunny days, the wharf is full of students and families hanging out with their legs in the water. Take it all in from the stone St. Michael’s Bridge at the southern end of Graslei.

The Great Butcher’s Hall is where you’ll end your walk north. It’s a cool spot to buy Flemish goods like beer cheese, cuberdon sweets in the shape of cones, and jenever, a juniper-based spirit. Tierenteyn-Verlent has been selling mustards since 1790, so don’t miss it. If that makes you hungry, Frites Atelier

The Huis van Alijn is a museum in a former almshouse that shows how people lived in the past. It’s only a short walk across the Leie river. Old toys, packaging, and home items are on display. The Nintendo Donkey Kongs and Wilbur and Friends dolls are sure to make people who remember them sigh with longing. The Design Museum Gent has permanent collections of international fabrics and furniture in the rooms of a former 18th-century home with a striking new wing. This is to honor the city’s history as a center for the textile trade.

Take your time walking around the small, pretty streets of Ghent. Werregarenstraat, an alleyway that’s so popular with graffiti artists that it’s now called Graffiti Street, and the Antiek-Depot, a huge, crowded room with lots of antique sellers and a lovely bar in the middle, are both fun things to do. But save room for a drink at Gentse Gruut Brouwerij, a brewery that doesn’t use hops but instead herbs and spices. In the brewery hall, which is full of strange artifacts (like zebra-striped stuffed cows), you can try the house beers. There are trips you can take if you want to learn more.